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GUIDE TO MATERIAL SELECTION
 
Cement
Cement is the binder that holds concrete and mortars together. Which is why it plays the most critical role in giving strength and durability to your home. It is used to make concrete for slabs, foundations, beams, columns, lintels, chhajja (sunshades), and mortar for brickwork, plastering, flooring and other such work.

Cements used for domestic building such as your home are basically of three types
1. Portland Slag Cement (PSC) conforming to IS:455
A combination of good quality blast furnace slag (from the iron and steel industry) with clinker (which makes OPC) and gypsum

2. Portland Pozzolana Cement (PPC) conforming to IS:1489
A combination of fly-ash (from thermal power plants) with clinker and gypsum

3. Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC) 33 Grade conforming to IS: 269, 43 Grade conforming to IS: 8112 and 53 Grade conforming to IS:12269

A combination of clinker and gypsum

PSC typically has high 28 day strength gains, even though it has slower initial setting characteristics. PSC also has a lighter colour, which makes it very desirable for many architectural applications such as mosaic flooring and plastering. This will result in better reflection of natural and artificial lighting and more effective paint coverage. However, the colour of cement has no relation to the strength characteristics.

PSC is preferred over OPC for the following reasons:

Reduced water requirement
Improved workability
Less permeable to moisture
Improved resistance to acids and chlorides
Reduced heat of hydration
Easier to finish
Reduced shrinkage
Reduced leaching problems because it is low on free lime

It is very important that you use only a reputed brand of cement. Good brands of cement may cost 2 to 5% more but offer quality, consistency and reliability as well as 10 to 20% greater strength characteristics. Cement accounts for a mere 12 to 18% of the total expenditure on your home. So, using cheaper cement gives you little overall savings

Cement must be added to the concrete and mortar in a precise, consistent manner. Too little or too much cement in concrete can cause lower strengths, shorter design life and lower durability

Ask your engineer/architect whether you can alter the ratios of the mix. Never try to save on cement use by diluting the concrete mix. Remember, that by using 30 to 40 bags less of cement, you would save no more than Rs 3000 to Rs 4000. But it could permanently weaken a building that costs Rs 5,00,000 to Rs 7,00,000 to build!

Please note that good quality blended cements like PSC and PPC will take more time to set and gain early strength in lower temperatures during winter than OPC, but final strengths at 28 days will be high

Cement must be kept dry, say by covering with tarpaulin, until final mixing into a construction material.

Sand
Proper selection of sand is critical in the durability and performance of your concrete mixture. It should be:
- clear, angular and hard
- free from clay, mica and soft, flaky material
- graded, which means it should be a mix of fine, medium and coarse sand
- free from contaminants like sea salt
- consistent in moisture (water) content which should not exceed 7%. When mixing concrete the moisture content must be taken into consideration.

The price of sand includes three or four components - base cost, transportation, handling and number of intermediaries. Procuring sand in bulk directly from the source will be cheaper. Your neighbourhood dealer in this case is likely to be costlier, except when you need smaller quantities.

Stone Chips Technically known as coarse aggregates, stone chips are a major ingredient of concrete, giving it strength and solidity. The quality of concrete depends very much on the characteristics of aggregates used.

Stone chips should be angular or round, not flat or flaky
They should not contain marks or layers of any other colour
They should be free from mud and other impurities, which are harmful for concreting. It is advisable to wash the stone chips before mixing to make it free from dust, dirt and mud.

Tips for selection
Aggregates should be well-graded. Which means these should contain sizes from 5mm to 20mm in proper proportion, so that voids are minimal. This will make a strong and durable concrete. At the same time, this will save on cement (see diagram below).

Stone chips are generally sold or supplied in multiples of 100 cubic feet (cft). A standard truck generally carries 300 cft of aggregates. This is calculated by multiplying the carrying area of the truck by the average depth of the load, measured by inserting a rod at four to five points to calculate the mean depth. A shrinkage of up to 2% per truck is allowed.

Price is a function of ex-works (quarry) price + transportation cost + handling + involvement of intermediaries. One should get aggregates from the source to get the best price. Always insist on graded aggregates and not on 'pure' ones.
Caution: You may end up paying more for 'pure' aggregates because aggregates are sold in volumes. So, a given volume of 'pure' aggregates will give you less weight because of larger voids between the chips.

Reinforcing Steel Reinforcing steel contributes to the tensile strength of concrete. Concrete has low tensile, but high compressive strength. The tensile deficiency is compensated by reinforcing the concrete mass through insertion of plain or twisted mild steel bars. Both branded and unbranded bars are available. It is wise to buy good brands, the names of which are marked on the steel. During construction, make sure that steel reinforcement is provided exactly as the engineering design specifies.

Precautions:
Steel bars/rods should be reasonably clean and free of rust
Bars that cannot be easily bent manually or mechanically should be rejected
Optimum length bars must be chosen to reduce wastage in cutting
To avoid laps, shorter bars must not be accepted
Welded lengths of bars should not be accepted.

Water It is very important to use clean, potable water in quality concrete production. Brackish or salty water must never be used. Contaminated water will produce concrete and mortars with lower durability, erratic set characteristics and inconsistent colour.

Bricks Bricks are distinguished by their base (raw) material and size. Standard burnt clay bricks come in the size 10" x 5" x 3". Modular bricks, rarely used because they are not easily available, come in the size 200 mm x 100 mm x 100 mm (including mortar thickness.) Fly ash bricks, sometimes, also come in modular form.

Conventional bricks have a 'frog' (depressed/raised portion) on one of the larger surfaces bearing the manufacturer's brand. These also provide a good mechanical key for bonding (i.e. lockability) with mortar. The modular bricks do not have the 'frog' on them. Fly ash bricks exhibit almost similar mechanical properties as burnt clay bricks. Exposed brickwork with precise pointing is possible if the shapes are perfect.

How do you recognize good bricks?

They show uniform texture and colour
When broken, they leave no lumps and grit

Precautions: Ensure that bricks are not made from saline clay. Look for proper and uniform burning.


The four broad categories of bricks used in construction:
1st Class Bricks
Perfect in size/shape Red to cherry-red in colour Do not break when dropped from waist height Do not absorb more than 15 to 17% of their own weight if kept submerged for 1 hour under water Suitable for precision work such as exposed brickwork
2nd Class Bricks
Not so uniform as 1st class bricks in shape/size/quality of burning Do not absorb more than 25% water of own weight if kept submerged under water for 1 hour Good for brickwork wherever subsequent plastering is to be done
3rd Class Bricks
Much inferior to 2nd class bricks in terms of shape/size and burning
Jhama/Overburnt Bricks
Absolutely out of size and shape, overburnt, fused with more bricks, with a honeycomb texture Dark red to black in colour These bricks are unsuitable for any kind of brickwork, and are only used in broken pieces for consolidation of foundation soil and sub base of floors
 
Sourced from :-Lafarge India 2000

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